Description
How to Draft a Bias Top Starting with a Knit Tee is the perfect class to dip your toe into the pool of drafting and bias garment sewing! If you love to draft your own patterns, or if you want to give pattern drafting a try, this is a great first project… because we’re not starting from scratch. We’re going to use a knit tee pattern to design a sleeveless bias top. This is also a great first bias garment project because I’m sharing all my tips and tricks to make sewing on the bias a snap! During the first class we will adjust the knit top pattern to fit when cut out of non-stretch woven fabric. During the second class we cut out and sew!
Using a Tee Pattern to Design a Bias Sleeveless Top
We’ll start by taking some simple body measurements and comparing them to the pattern to pick out a starting size. Then we’ll adjust the pieces to have an appropriate amount of ease for a bias garment. The bias grainline has built-in stretch that we can take advantage of to create a garment that fits and flares. This stretch is different than the stretch that runs along the cross or lengthwise grain of a fabric. I’ll show you samples of the same top sewn up in the same fabric – One cut out on the bias & the other cut out on the straight of grain to show you how differently these garment hang from the shoulders. One of the key areas of the pattern that will change significantly is the shape of the armhole. To have enough ease across the high bust, the armhole will be more narrow than a traditional armhole. This in turn will require the armhole to be lengthened. We’ll also look at the waistline and hem to make sure you have the right amount of ease in these key areas too.
Learn how to change some of the details of the original tee pattern. If you want to play with the shape of the neckline, I’ll show you how to create transform a round neckline into a V-neckline. You can also play with the length of the hem to create a tunic or dress.
After the pattern pieces are finished, we’re going to take it one step farther. I’ll show you how to get rid of the traditional side seams in favor of seams that run along the straight of grain. Seams sewn along the bias grainline can be hard to control. Adding diagonal seam details that run along the straight of grain are easy to sew and hang so much better.
Fabric Choices that are Appropriate for a Bias Garment
After completing the pattern pieces, we’ll cut them out and sew them together. During the first class I’ll show you a few different samples made from different fabrics so you an see how these fabrics act when they are cut on the bias. I’ll share which fabrics are easier to work with and which are a little more fussy. My top choices for sewing on the bias are linen, loosely woven cottons, rayon challis and silk charmuse. You can find a good selection of these fabrics at Fabric Mart Fabrics and Metro Textiles.
Adding Ease for Fit and Style
During the second class we’re going to sew the pieces together and try on our new bias tops. Here’s the most exciting thing about working on the bias… If your top is too snug, you can slip in a triangle shaped wedge of fabric along the straight of grain to add ease. If you’re working with printed fabric, this wedge literally disappears into the garment. Or, choose a contrasting fabric to make it a designer detail! This is so cool, you might want to add a wedge of fabric just to increase the “Swish” of your top!
You will leave class with your favorite new bias top… perfect for a summer day or to wear as a layering piece under a cardi. I will be working with the Tee from the Tee Twin Set. This knit pattern includes a Cardi that pairs wonderfully with a sleeveless bias top. If you’d like to work with this pattern, here’s a link. You can also work with a Tee pattern from your stash.
Supply List
- Tee Pattern of your Choice
- Pattern Paper
- 2 yards – Linen, Loosely Woven Cotton or Rayon Challis for Bias Top (Depending on the size you’re working with and the length of your hem, you could need up to 2 yards, less for shorter hems and smaller sizes)
- Clear Grid 18″ Ruler
- Tape Measure
- Pencils
- Paper Scissors
- Scotch Tape
- Basic Sewing Supplies to sew bias top
- The Bias 101 Workbook will be emailed to you a few days before class
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