Thoughts on Positioning Back Pockets

I want to share some thoughts on positioning back pockets.  The process of making a well fitting pair of pants can be a labor of love.  First the pattern needs to be adjusted to achieve a great fit.  This can involve multiple fit muslins and pattern adjustments.   At this point I recommend tracing a neat copy and checking to make sure the side and inseams still agree with each other.  Then you need to check all the other pieces to make sure they agree with the newly adjusted leg pieces.  About now, you’re probably so excited to start sewing you can’t stand it…

First, you have to cut out all the pieces… on grain.  Then you can sew.  Among all the steps involved in making pants, dealing with the back pockets comes near the finish line.  It might be tempting to sew the pockets on without considering how they are positioned.  This is where tragedy can strike!

Let me share a few things to think about before you pop those pockets on.   The first thing to look at is the size of the back pocket.  Most pocket pattern pieces is not graded, so it may be too big or too small for you.  You may not even like the shape of it.  There is a quick tutorial showing how to design your own back pocket right on the back leg pattern piece in my May Newsletter.

After you’ve designed your back pocket it’s time to think about where to position it.  In the tutorial I recommend positioning the inside corner/edge of the back pocket  1 1/2″ – 2 1/2″ from the CB seam.  Here’s why.

My daughter, Anna, is a Volleyball referee.  She was having trouble finding pants to wear because she needed big back pockets.  Of course I decided that I could make her some.  We started with the size 20 Happy Pants Pattern.  After a couple fitting sessions I was ready to sew them up.   When it came to putting the pockets on, we decided to push them closer to the side seam so she could easily reach around to access her red and yellow cards and other referee stuff she needs.

I positioned the back pockets 3″ from the CB seam.  Even though I was working with a size 20 pattern, 3″ is too far from the CB seam.  Here’s a close-up photo of Anna’s back view. You can see that the pockets look really spread out and not very flattering.   I asked her if I could move them closer to CB… but she was happy with how easily she could get to them.  (I cringed on the inside and left them alone).  She promised to only wear them as part of her V-Ball Ref Uniform!

I hope this helps you when it comes time to position back pockets on your next pair of pants!   let me know if you have questions… Happy Mother’s Day… and Happy Sewing!